Free Crochet Bat Amigurumi Pattern – Halloween Batch Make

If you’ve been looking for the perfect quick Halloween project that actually looks impressive when it’s done, this Crochet Bat Amigurumi pattern is exactly what your hook has been waiting for. Those tiny folded wings and little beady eyes come together faster than you’d think, and the result is this irresistibly squishy little creature that looks adorable hanging from a curtain rod, perched on a bookshelf, or tucked into a Halloween vignette. Works great in classic grey but honestly a dusty purple or deep plum yarn takes it somewhere really special. Beginner friendly, stash friendly, and dangerously addictive once you start.

Bat amigurumi work on a design logic that is different from most other animal patterns, since the wings do most of the visual work rather than the body. This free crochet bat pattern handles that well by keeping the round body simple and putting the detail into the shaped, flat wings that spread out on either side.

Crochet Bat Amigurumi

 

• One bat runs about 1.5–2 hours at a comfortable pace — the wing shaping is the longest single step. A batch of twelve sits around 18–22 hours total, which drops closer to 15–16 hours once you’re working assembly-line style and the wing rhythm is in your hands.
• Starting from scratch: you can finish a batch of six with 5 days to spare if you put in two hours an evening. For twelve, start 10 days out at minimum. Don’t leave wings for last — they take longer than they look.

Time per unit (assembly-line): approximately 90 minutes once your speed is up.

Yarn Yardage for Twelve

Each bat uses roughly 40–50m of main colour yarn. For a batch of twelve, budget 550–600m — approximately two standard 100g skeins of grey acrylic at typical yardage, with some margin. If you’re working in multiple colourways, weigh one finished bat and calculate from there.

Pieces List

Per bat:

• Body × 1
• Ears × 2
• Wings × 2

Total pieces per batch of twelve: 12 bodies, 24 ears, 24 wings. Sixty pieces. Make all bodies first.

Materials

• Grey acrylic yarn (or colour of choice)
• 3.0 mm crochet hook (body and wings)
• 2.0 mm crochet hook (ears)
• Polyester fiberfill
• Stitch marker
• Snap-on safety eyes (or embroidery floss for under-threes — see safety note below)
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

Safety eyes note: If any of these bats are going to children under three, or into treat bags where you can’t control who takes what, embroider the eyes with black floss instead. Do not attach safety eyes to anything going into a Halloween bucket.

The Pattern

Body

• Use 3.0 mm hook throughout. Work in continuous rounds. Place a stitch marker at the start of each round and move it up as you go.
• Rnd 1: 6 sc into magic ring. (6) Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12) Rnd 3: [1 sc, inc] × 6. (18) Rnd 4: [1 sc, inc, 2 sc] × 6. (24)

[CHECK — Round 4 stitch pattern as given in source produces 24 stitches but the grouping description is ambiguous. Verify your count reaches 24 before proceeding. If not, work [2 sc, inc] × 6 as an alternative standard increase to 24.]

• Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] × 6. (30) Rnds 6–13: Sc in each st around. (30) — 8 rounds even.

→ Shape checkpoint: By Round 5, the circle should measure roughly 6–7 cm across and sit as a flat disc. By Round 13, the body should be a cylinder around 4–5 cm tall with even, closed stitches. If the sides are bowing outward, tension is too loose. If the piece is pulling inward, loosen your hook grip slightly.

Don’t let crochet patterns intimidate you! If you’re a beginner, the video tutorial below makes it super easy to follow along!

• Rnd 14: [CHECK — source describes a decrease pattern here but the specific repeat is unclear. Work [2 sc, inv dec, 2 sc] × 5 as a working estimate and count your stitches at the end of the round before proceeding. Adjust if the count doesn’t feel right against the visible shape.]
• Rnds 15–16: Continue working with decreased stitch count from Round 14, sc evenly around. [CHECK — exact counts not given in source; maintain even tension and track your stitch count with a marker.]

Safety eye placement:

• Attach snap-on safety eyes now, around the upper-middle section of the body — roughly where Rounds 5–7 sit. Press the washers on firmly. This is the last point you can safely reach inside.
• Rnd 17: Dec in every other st around. [CHECK — starting count for this round depends on Round 14 outcome; verify count before working.]

Stuff the body now.

• Fill firmly — the bat needs to hold its round shape through display. Don’t wait until Round 18 to start stuffing; the opening will be too small.
• Rnds 18 onward: Continue decreasing evenly each round until the hole closes completely.
• Fasten off. Thread tail through remaining stitches, pull closed, weave end inside.

→ Shape checkpoint: Finished body should be a compact, firm oval — like a slightly flattened sphere. No flat spots, no soft areas. If it dents and stays dented, it needs more stuffing. Re-open the closing seam if necessary; it’s easier than it looks.

Ears (Make 2 per bat)

• Switch to 2.0 mm hook. The ears are worked flat in rows, not in the round.
• Foundation: Ch 4.
• Row 1: Skip first ch, 1 sc in each of next 3 ch. Ch 1, turn. (3) Row 2: 3 sc across. Ch 1, turn. (3) Row 3: 3 sc across. Ch 1, turn. (3) Row 4: 1 dec, 1 sc. Ch 1, turn. (2) Row 5: 2 sc. Ch 1, turn. (2) Row 6: 1 dec. Ch 1, fasten off leaving a long tail. (1)
• The finished ear is a small flat triangle. Fold if needed to sharpen the point before attaching. Make all ears for the entire batch before moving to wings.

Wings (Make 2 per bat)

• Switch back to 3.0 mm hook. Wings are worked flat.
• Foundation: Ch 7.
• Row 1: Skip first ch, 6 sc down the chain. Slst, turn. (6) Row 2: 6 sc back across, ch 2, slst into the same st, 1 sc into that same st. Ch 1, turn. Row 3: Sc across row, ending with inc in the last st. Ch 1, turn. Row 4: Sc across row, ending with dec in the last sts. Ch 1, turn.
• Continuing rows — wing tip shaping: Work rows of sc with ch-4 points and slip stitches along the outer edge to form the bat wing silhouette ridges and points. [CHECK — the source demonstrates the wing point construction visually but does not specify exact stitch counts per ridge or number of ridges. Work the ch-4 points and slst returns until the wing has 2–3 visible points along the outer edge and sits with a straight inner edge for body attachment. Reference the original video at approximately the 20:41 mark for visual guidance on the tip sequence.]
• Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.
• → Shape checkpoint: Each finished wing should have a straight inner edge (this attaches to the body) and a scalloped or pointed outer edge with visible wing ridges. It should lie flat without curling. If the edges are rolling, the turning chains may be too tight — block lightly with a damp cloth if needed before assembly.

Assembly-Line Running Order

Do not assemble one bat at a time. Work in this order across your full batch:

• Step 1 — All bodies. Work and stuff all 12 bodies. Place safety eyes during construction on each, not after. Stack finished bodies in a bowl as you go.
• Step 2 — All ears. Make all 24 ears (2 per bat). Keep them in pairs so they don’t get mixed up. Pin each pair to its body before sewing — place ears symmetrically at the top of the head, pointed upward, roughly 3–4 stitches apart at the base. Sew all ears before touching wings.
• Step 3 — All wings. Make all 24 wings. This is the longest step; put something on in the background. Once all wings are made, attach them to the bodies: one on each side, inner edge flush against the body at roughly the mid-section. Pin both wings on each bat before sewing either — symmetry is much easier to check when both are pinned simultaneously.
• Step 4 — Weave all ends. Do this last, in one pass. Threading a needle twelve times in a row is faster than threading it 60 times interspersed with construction.

Safety Eye Timing

• Eyes attach during body construction, around Rounds 5–7, before the body starts to close. This is non-negotiable — the opening is too small after Round 17 to seat a safety eye washer properly.
• For treat bags, party favours, or any situation involving children under three: embroider both eyes with black floss instead. Two small satin-stitched circles. It takes less than five minutes per bat and removes the choke hazard entirely.

Stuffing Notes

The body gets firm stuffing — this bat will live on a shelf or in a display and needs to hold its shape. Wings and ears are not stuffed. Over-stuffing the body is almost impossible with amigurumi this size; under-stuffing shows immediately as dents and a soft base.

 

The Character Dial

• Toward creepier: work the body in near-black charcoal rather than grey. Use red safety eyes instead of black — they read as unsettling on a small face in a way that larger dolls can’t quite pull off. Embroider a thin, tight-lipped expression in dark thread. Skip the rosy detail entirely.
• Toward sweeter: pale lavender or dusty rose yarn makes the bat read as a soft creature rather than a Halloween prop. White or pale yellow eyes. Add two small embroidered cheek circles in a slightly deeper shade of the body colour. This version works year-round on a child’s shelf.

Colourways

• Classic Dusk — medium grey body, black eyes, no additional detail. The original. Still the most versatile for mixed Halloween displays.
• Midnight Navy — very dark navy yarn reads as near-black in photos but picks up room light differently than true black. Slightly more interesting on a tiered tray.
• Dusty Plum — muted purple-grey. Pairs naturally with cream and rust autumn décor without looking out of place in November.
• Cream & Tan — off-white body with tan ear tips embroidered in a contrast colour. Unexpected. Works in neutral or Scandinavian-influenced spaces that don’t do orange-and-black.

Display Ideas

Hung in a cluster from a ceiling hook at different lengths using black thread, a group of five or six creates a swooping effect that flat decorations can’t replicate. A single bat perched on a mantel book spine, wings spread, takes up almost no space. Lined up along a windowsill facing outward, they’re visible from the street after dark.

After the Season

Acrylic yarn stores well but picks up dust and lint easily. Put finished bats into a zip bag or small box before storing — not loose in a bin with heavier decorations, which will flatten the wings. They’ll come out next October looking exactly as they went in.