Free Crochet Vampire Amigurumi Pattern For Halloween

He showed up uninvited, took over the entire Halloween shelf, and honestly nobody is complaining. This Crochet Vampire Amigurumi pattern gives you the most dapper little bloodsucker you’ve ever seen in yarn form — tiny cape, slicked back hair, and that signature dramatic expression that says he’s been awake since 1642 and has opinions about your color choices. The construction is straightforward enough for beginners but the finished piece looks like something you’d spot in a boutique Halloween shop and quietly put back because the price tag was too scary. A few hours, some deep red and black yarn, and you’ll have the most charming addition to your spooky season collection this side of Transylvania.

Reversible amigurumi patterns are always an interesting construction challenge, and this free crochet vampire amigurumi pattern takes that concept and makes it genuinely fun to execute. Flipping between the vampire face and the bat side means you get two distinct characters from a single project without doubling your yarn use or finishing time.

Free Crochet Vampire Amigurumi

 

• Before you cast on, picture where this will go. The reversible gimmick is lost if it’s buried in a bowl. It needs to be somewhere people will pick it up — the end of a mantel where hands reach, a tiered tray at eye level, a small wooden stand on an entryway shelf. Prop it vampire-side-out for the first half of October, then flip it to the bat side the week before Halloween. That’s not a styling note; it’s the whole point of making something reversible.
• Other placements that work: hanging from a wreath centre on a short ribbon (bat side out), sitting beside a pillar candle grouping, or tucked into the opening of a small pumpkin basket as a gift topper. The proportions are compact enough that it doesn’t dominate a vignette — it just makes it better.

Halloween Countdown

	Time
Single doll, experienced maker	3–4 hours
Batch of six	16–20 hours across sessions
Latest start for a single doll	2 days before
Latest start for a batch of six	10 days before

The collar and wings add time that a standard amigurumi doesn’t have. Don’t underestimate them.

What You’ll Make

Vampire side: head and body (worked as one continuous piece), vampire collar Bat side: bat base (worked from the remaining body loops), bat ears ×2, bat wings ×2

Total pieces: 6 (plus the joined head-body unit)

Materials

Yarn in the following colours: skin tone, vampire outfit colour, bat colour (black or very dark), collar accent, wing accent Crochet hook: 2.5 mm Polyfill stuffing Safety eyes Yarn needle and scissors

 

The Pattern

Pieces List

• Head and Body (Vampire Side) — worked continuously, 1 piece Vampire Collar — 1 piece Bat Base — worked from remaining body loops, 1 piece Bat Ears — make 2 Bat Wings — make 2

Part 1: Head and Body (Vampire Side)

Head

Work in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to track the round start.

• Magic ring, 6 sc into the ring. Pull tight to close. (6 sts) Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts) Round 3: (1 sc, 1 increase) repeat around. (18 sts) Round 4: (2 sc, 1 increase) repeat around. (24 sts) Round 5: (3 sc, 1 increase) repeat around. (30 sts) Round 6: (4 sc, 1 increase) repeat around. (36 sts) Rounds 7–11: 1 sc in each st around. (36 sts per round)
• Shape checkpoint: By round 6 the piece should sit like a shallow bowl — curved sides, open top, not a flat disc. If it’s still flat, your tension is likely loose. By round 10 it should be reading as a clear dome.
• Safety eyes: Insert between rounds 8 and 9, approximately 6–7 stitches apart. Do this now, before the piece closes. See safety eye note below.
• Round 12: (4 sc, 1 decrease) repeat 6 times around. (30 sts) Round 13: (3 sc, 1 decrease) in FLO (front loop only), repeat 6 times around. (24 sts) Round 14: (2 sc, 1 decrease) repeat 6 times around. (18 sts) Round 15: (1 sc, 1 decrease) repeat 6 times around. (12 sts)
• Firmly stuff the head with polyfill now, before continuing.
• Round 16: 1 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Shape checkpoint: After stuffing, the head should feel solid but not drum-tight. Press lightly — it should hold its shape without the surface puckering.

Colour Change to Vampire Body

• On the last stitch of Round 16, change to the vampire outfit colour.
• Round 17: Working in BLO (back loop only), 1 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
• The FLO of Round 13 and the BLO of Round 17 are what create the neck indent and give the collar somewhere natural to sit. Keep those loops clean.
• Round 18: (1 sc, 1 increase) repeat 6 times around. (18 sts) Round 19: (2 sc, 1 increase) repeat 6 times around. (24 sts) Round 20: (3 sc, 1 increase) repeat 6 times around. (30 sts) Round 21: (4 sc, 1 increase) repeat 6 times around. (36 sts) Round 22: (5 sc, 1 increase) repeat 6 times around. (42 sts) Rounds 23–24: 1 sc in each st around. (42 sts per round)

Shape checkpoint: By round 22 the body should be clearly wider than the head and sitting flat at the base without curling. If the edges curl up, try holding the piece more loosely.

Do not fasten off yet. The remaining loops at the base will be used for the bat side.

If you’re a beginner and crochet patterns feel confusing, start with the video tutorial below, it’s the easiest way to learn as you go!

 

Part 2: Vampire Collar

• Chain 15. Row 1: Starting in the 3rd ch from the hook, 1 hdc across. [CHECK — exact stitch count from chain not confirmed in source] Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Hdc across. Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Hdc with increases placed to shape collar points at the ends. [CHECK — exact placement of increases not specified in source; work increases at each end and the centre to create a pointed scalloped edge]
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
• Assembly note: Attach the collar around the neck of the vampire body (the natural indent between head and body). Pin before sewing. The collar should wrap comfortably without pulling.

Base (Bottom of the Reversible Body)

Attach bat-coloured yarn to the remaining base loops of the body.

• Work increases and closing rounds to shape and seal the bottom of the reversible body so it inverts cleanly. [CHECK — specific round counts and stitch totals for the bat base were not given in the source; the video shows the base being worked to a close that mirrors the head construction in reverse]
• The body is now complete as a reversible unit. The vampire head is one end; the closed bat base is the other.

Ears (Make 2)

• Magic ring, 4 sc into the ring. Pull tight to close. (4 sts) Round 2: (1 sc, 1 increase) repeat 2 times around. (6 sts) Round 3: 1 sc in each st around. (6 sts)
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Fold the base of the ear flat before sewing — this creates the natural pointed ear shape without any shaping rounds needed.
• Assembly: Pin both ears to the top sides of the bat head (the vampire body, inverted) before sewing. Check symmetry from the front before committing.

Wings (Make 2)

• Chain a short base. Work rows of hdc with shaping to create a pointed bat-wing silhouette. [CHECK — exact chain count and row construction were not fully given in source; the video shows wing construction similar to the collar, using hdc rows with angled shaping at the tips. Approximate: chain 8–10, work 3–4 rows with decreases on one side to create a triangle-like point]
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
• Assembly: Attach wings symmetrically to the sides of the bat body. Pin both before sewing either — small placement differences read large from a distance.

Safety Eye Timing

• Eyes go in during round 12–13 of the head, when the opening is still wide enough to reach inside comfortably. Between rounds 8 and 9, 6–7 stitches apart, is where the source places them for proportion.
• Once the head is stuffed and closed in round 15, there is no going back without reopening the piece. If you’re making this for anyone under three, swap safety eyes for embroidered eyes before closing. The same applies if this is going into a treat bag, party favour, or classroom gift — any context where the maker won’t be supervising the child with it.

Stuffing

The head gets stuffed firmly — enough that it holds its sphere shape and doesn’t dimple when the collar is attached. The body stays a little softer; too much stuffing in the body makes it hard to flip the reversible construction cleanly. Stuff the body at around 70% of what feels full.

The Character Dial

The base design sits in classic Halloween territory. Here’s how to push it in either direction.

• Creepier: Use a pale grey or greenish-white for the skin tone rather than pink. Sew a stitched X mouth in dark thread below the eyes. Choose muted, almost-black colours for the vampire outfit — dark burgundy reads more unsettling than bright red. For the bat side, use a charcoal grey instead of solid black; it photographs darker and reads as more ominous than pure black yarn. Leave the eyes closer together than the pattern suggests for an off, slightly unsettling expression.
• Sweeter: Warm the skin tone toward peach or sand. Use lilac or dusty rose for the vampire outfit — unconventional but genuinely good-looking on the shelf. Add tiny embroidered rosy circles at the cheeks. For the bat, use a medium purple instead of black; the whole piece softens immediately. Round the ears slightly by not folding them fully flat before sewing — a slightly puffed ear reads as cuter than the crisp pointed version.

Neither version is more correct. The reversible format means you can make one of each and let whoever picks it up decide which side they prefer.

Colourways

• Midnight Classic: Black bat side, deep red vampire outfit, ivory skin, white collar. The one people expect — works every time.
• Violet Hour: Eggplant bat side, dusty rose vampire outfit, warm peach skin, pale lavender collar. Unexpected and very good on a shelf with dried botanicals.
• Old Wax: Warm tan bat side, dark forest green vampire outfit, pale gold skin, cream collar. Reads as vintage, like something from an antique shop — suits a rustic or cottagecore Halloween aesthetic.
• Silver and Shadow: Mid-grey bat side, charcoal vampire outfit, cool ivory skin, silver-grey collar. Monochromatic and a little eerie. Particularly good if the doll is sitting near metallic candleholders.

Display Ideas

• On the mantel, stand it vampire-side-up between two small black taper candles. The verticality of the piece holds its own without being overwhelmed.
• On a tiered tray, position it at the top tier where it reads clearly — don’t let it get lost among pumpkins and fabric scraps at the lower level.
• Threaded on a short piece of black ribbon through the collar and hung from a wreath centre (bat side facing out) — this one gets attention because hanging amigurumi on wreaths is not what people expect.
• As a gift topper: set it on top of a wrapped gift with the recipient’s name tucked under the collar. More memorable than a bow.

After the Season

When Halloween is done, wrap the doll in a small square of acid-free tissue — not plastic, which traps moisture — and store it in a lidded box rather than a bin bag. Polyfill compresses under weight, so don’t stack anything heavy on top. Stored this way it comes out next October in exactly the condition it went in. The reversible nature means it’s twice as hard to lose; one character is always facing outward no matter which way you put it in the box.

Quick Answers

How difficult is this pattern for someone comfortable with basic amigurumi? If you’ve made a standard amigurumi head and body before, the head and body construction here will feel familiar. The reversible element sounds complicated but mostly means you stop before the base and work the bat bottom separately. The collar and wings are the trickiest parts — both involve flat row construction that behaves differently from working in the round.

Can I make this with worsted weight yarn and a larger hook? Yes — scale up the hook to match your yarn and the proportions will hold. The finished piece will be larger, which actually makes the reversible flip more satisfying to demonstrate. Safety eye size will need to scale up accordingly.

The collar points aren’t lying flat. What’s happening? The collar is worked in rows of hdc and will naturally want to curl slightly. Block it lightly with steam before attaching — hold the iron a few centimetres above, don’t press it down — and it will lie flat long enough to sew in place. Once attached, the tension of the sewing holds it down.

Source: Pattern derived from the video “Reversible Crochet Vampire and Bat Doll.” Credit and link the original designer/channel when publishing.