The Crochet Mummy Amigurumi is a soft Halloween make that fits naturally into any seasonal display or handmade gift – distinctive enough to stand alone, friendly enough to sit next to anything. Pattern below.

By the time this one gets finished it is usually already sitting next to the skeleton and the voodoo doll on the same shelf. That is how October works for makers who start early.

Crochet Mummy Amigurumi

The Crochet Mummy Amigurumi wraps up well as a handmade gift, handed over in a little bag, it has enough visual personality that the recipient knows immediately what they are holding even before they see the face. The bandage texture is the part that makes it read as a mummy rather than just a small wrapped thing.

Before You Start: Date Math

• Halloween is October 31. This post covers Part 1 of a three-part series — the legs, body base, and joining. Budget your time accordingly.
• One complete doll (all parts): 5–8 hours across multiple sessions, depending on experience level and how long the bandage wrapping takes in later parts. A batch of six: 25–35 hours. The leg-joining step is the slowest per unit — it speeds up considerably once you’ve done it twice. Latest safe start date: October 26 for one doll. October 18 if you’re making a classroom set of six and want to finish without stress.

Safety First: Read This Before You Make One for a Child

For a doll going to a child, these points are not optional.

1. Safety eyes are not suitable for children under three. The plastic shank can separate from the eye front under repeated pulling, creating a choking hazard. For any doll intended for a toddler or infant, embroider the eyes using black yarn or black embroidery thread instead. The transcript notes this option explicitly, and it is the right call for any make going into small hands.
2. Treat bags, party favours, and classroom gifts have the same rule. You do not always know the age of every child who will receive something from a party table. When in doubt, embroider.
3. Washability matters for children’s toys. The pattern calls for 5-ply cotton yarn, which is a good choice — cotton holds up to washing better than acrylic for softie construction. Check that your specific yarn is machine-washable before gifting, and include a small note with washing instructions if you can. Hand wash cold, reshape, and air dry is the safe default for any stuffed toy.
4. Name-tagging for classroom or party sets: A small loop of ribbon sewn into the back seam works well, with the child’s name written on the ribbon in fabric marker. This is far more durable than a tag tied on after the fact.

Making These for a Group

If you’re making a classroom set or party favours, the body construction here lends itself to batch work. The leg pairs are the fiddliest part — do all of them first, across all dolls, before moving on to body joining. Once you have the chain-4 bridge technique memorised from the first two or three pairs, the rest go quickly. Set up a small production station with stitch markers pre-clipped and fiberfill within reach, because the stuffing window (before Row 17) closes faster than expected.

For a group of twelve children, plan for roughly 30 body pieces plus 12 head sets from the later parts. Label each doll’s components as you finish them if you’re making dolls in different colourways per child — a sticky note around the yarn tail is enough.

Pieces List

This post covers Part 1 only. The full doll requires additional parts from Parts 2 and 3 of the original series.

• Legs: 2 (joined together during body construction)
• Body base: 1 (built directly from the joined legs)
• Hands: 2 (made separately and attached — covered in Part 2)
• Head: 1 (covered in Part 2/3)
• Bandage wrapping: applied during finishing

Materials

• 5-ply cotton yarn in body colour and bandage colour (leftover yarn works well)
• Crochet hook: 3.5 mm (adjust if your yarn weight differs)
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Safety eyes — or black yarn/embroidery thread for under-threes (see Safety section above)
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle

The Character Dial: Spookier vs. Sweeter

• The mummy is one of the most flexible Halloween figures to push in either direction, because the bandage wrapping is doing most of the visual work and the underlying doll shape stays consistent.
• Sweeter: Use a pale peach or warm cream body colour under soft white bandage yarn. Add rosy cheeks with a few surface stitches in dusty rose. Keep the eyes wide and round — if you’re embroidering, make them large ovals rather than tight dots. A pastel lavender or baby yellow bandage yarn instead of white makes the whole thing read more candy than cemetery. For a child’s version, this palette is the one that photographs well in bright light and looks genuinely gift-ready.
• Spookier: Shift the body colour to a grey-green or aged linen. Use off-white or ecru bandage yarn rather than stark white, so the wrapping looks weathered. Leave gaps in the bandage application deliberately uneven. Embroider the eyes as mismatched sizes — one slightly larger than the other — and add a few diagonal stitch lines across the face for cracks. A few strands of the bandage yarn left long and fraying at the edges adds texture that reads much creepier than a neatly finished version. This version works better as a display piece than a child’s toy.
• The bandage wrapping is applied after construction and is the single easiest place to change the character of the doll without touching a single pattern round.

The Pattern

Abbreviations

• sc — single crochet
• inc — increase (2 sc in same stitch)
• dec — decrease (sc2tog over 2 stitches)
• ch — chain
• MR — magic ring
• st(s) — stitch(es)

Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round.

Legs — Make 2

Work both legs before joining. Fasten off the first leg cleanly. Leave a working yarn tail on the second leg — you will use it immediately to begin the joining row.

• Round 1: MR, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tight. (6 sts)
• Round 2: Inc in every stitch around. (12 sts)
• Round 3: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
• Round 4: Sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Fasten off the first leg and set aside. For the second leg, complete Round 4 but do not fasten off — continue directly to the joining step.

 

Shape Checkpoint — Legs: After Round 2 the leg should sit as a flat disc. By Round 4 it should have formed a short open cylinder — wide enough to fit your thumb into. If both legs look the same diameter and roughly equal in height, you’re in good shape for joining.

Joining the Legs and Beginning the Body

This step connects both legs with a chain bridge and establishes the body base round. Take it slowly on your first attempt — the chain-4 bridge is easy to twist.

• From the last stitch of the second leg, ch 4.
• Sc into the first stitch of the first leg to join. Work 12 sc around the first leg.
• Ch 4 from the last stitch of the first leg.
• Join back to the second leg and work 12 sc around it.

The two chain-4 bridges create a gap between the legs. This gap is intentional — you will close and stabilise it later by weaving a separate length of yarn in a criss-cross pattern across the hole. Do not try to sc across the gap in this round.

Total stitch count at this point: 32 stitches. [CHECK — count your stitches here before continuing. The 32 includes 12 around each leg plus the 4 ch on each bridge side; confirm yours matches before moving to Round 5.]

Shape Checkpoint — After Joining: The two legs should hang from the joined base like a pair of shorts — parallel, not twisted. The chain bridges should be flat and the gap between the legs centred. If one leg is rotated relative to the other, this is the moment to identify it.

If you’re new to reading crochet patterns, don’t worry, just follow along with the video tutorial below and use the written pattern as a reference!

 

Body — Worked from Joined Base Upward

Expanding the Body

• Round 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeated 8 times around. (40 sts)
• Round 6: Sc in each stitch around. (40 sts)
• Round 7: Sc in each stitch around. (40 sts)
• Round 8: Sc in each stitch around. (40 sts)
• Round 9: [Sc 4, inc] repeated 8 times around. (48 sts)
• Rounds 10–16: Sc in each stitch around. (48 sts per round)

Stuffing window: Before working Round 17, add fiberfill into the legs and lower body now. The opening narrows significantly through the decrease rows and becomes difficult to stuff adequately once you’re past Row 19. Fill the legs firmly and the lower body to about two-thirds full — you can add more through the top later if needed.

Shape Checkpoint — After Round 16: The body should be a solid rounded cylinder at this point, noticeably wider than the legs beneath it. The waist shaping comes through the decrease rows, not here. If your piece is pulling to one side or the stitch count feels off, count back to Round 9 before continuing.

Decreasing the Body

• Round 17: [Sc 6, dec] repeated 6 times around. (42 sts)
• Round 18: Sc in each stitch around. (42 sts)
• Round 19: [Sc 5, dec] repeated 6 times around. (36 sts)
• Round 20: Sc in each stitch around. (36 sts)
• Round 21: [Sc 4, dec] repeated around. (30 sts)
• Round 22: [Sc 3, dec] repeated 6 times around. (24 sts)

At the end of Round 22, the body base is complete. The instructor pauses here to make and attach the hands before continuing to the head. Fasten off or place a locking stitch marker to hold your work while you make the hand pieces from Part 2 of the series.

Shape Checkpoint — After Round 22: The body should now taper clearly toward the top — wider at the hips, pulling inward at the shoulders. At 24 stitches the opening is still large enough to add additional stuffing if the body feels soft. Add fiberfill now if needed before attaching the hands and moving to the head.

Assembly Notes

• Full assembly is covered in Parts 2 and 3, but here is what to keep in mind as you finish Part 1.
• Close the gap between the legs using a separate length of yarn woven in a criss-cross pattern across the hole. Pull it snug enough to stabilise the opening without distorting the leg shape. Weave in the ends carefully — this is a stress point on a toy that will be handled.

Pin all pieces before sewing. Hands and head placement look obvious until you’re holding the finished body and realise one arm sits noticeably higher than the other. A few pins take twenty seconds and save the kind of ripping-back that takes much longer.

 

Stuffing Notes

Cotton yarn has less stretch than acrylic, which means overstuffing shows more clearly in the finished doll. Aim for firm but not drum-tight — you should be able to gently compress the body without the stitches separating. The legs benefit from slightly firmer stuffing than the body so they hold their shape during bandage wrapping. Leave the very top of the body (the final few rounds) with slightly less filling to allow the head to sit flush against the body once attached.

Colourways Beyond the Default

• Classic Linen: Warm cream body, off-white bandage yarn. Understated and photographically clean. Works with any display setting.
• Terracotta Tomb: Dusty terracotta or adobe body colour, pale ivory bandage. Unexpected and earthy. Looks striking against autumn foliage in a seasonal vignette.
• Mint Condition: Pale seafoam body colour, white bandage. The surprise palette. More desk toy than Halloween decoration, which is its charm.
• Monochrome Wrap: Grey body, slightly darker grey bandage. The most graphic version — the wrapping reads as texture rather than colour contrast, and the silhouette does the work.

Display Ideas

A mummy softie reads well in a child’s room year-round if the palette is soft enough — peach and cream does not scream October the way black and orange does. For a specifically Halloween display, a small wicker basket with orange tissue paper and two or three of these nestled in makes a party favour presentation that photographs extremely well. On a classroom shelf, line them up facing outward at the edge — the bandage wrapping gives each one enough visual texture that even identically-made dolls look slightly individual. As a gift topper on a wrapped Halloween treat box, tie a length of bandage yarn into the bow to echo the doll.

 

After the Season

Cotton yarn is more resistant to compression damage than acrylic, which means these store well. Wrap each doll loosely in a piece of tissue paper before boxing — this keeps the bandage wrapping from flattening against the body surface over twelve months. A clean ziplock bag inside the storage box protects against dust and any moisture that gets into storage areas. If the bandage wrapping has shifted during the year, a few minutes with a tapestry needle is usually enough to reposition it before it goes back on display.

Quick Answers

Can my five-year-old help make this? The magic ring and joining step are both genuinely tricky for small hands, but a child who already knows basic single crochet can work the straight rounds (Rounds 3, 4, 6–8, 10–16) with supervision. It is a good project for teaching continuous rounds with a stitch marker.

Are safety eyes safe for a four-year-old? At four, most children are past the peak choking-hazard age, but individual children vary. If there’s any doubt, embroider. Black yarn in a satin stitch holds up to washing and heavy play in a way that safety eyes with a small shank don’t always.

How do I wash the finished doll? Hand wash in cool water with a small amount of mild detergent. Gently reshape and air dry flat. Do not wring or machine-spin — the stuffing can shift and clump. Cotton dries relatively quickly compared to acrylic-stuffed toys.

This is Part 1 of 3 — where do I find the rest of the pattern? The full series is by Auntie Nat’s Crochet. The original Part 1 video is linked below. Parts 2 and 3 cover the hands, head, and finishing including the bandage wrapping.