Crochet Angel Amigurumi Christmas Pattern Free

Ruffle trim along the coat opening and hem does the decorative work on this crochet angel amigurumi free pattern, so the shaping underneath stays plain. Paint the bead face before the bonnet goes on, since the bonnet covers the crown once it is attached.

Six for the church fair and six for the neighbours is a realistic weekend, and that is the number most people end up needing. This one is not a stuffed toy. It is five flat crochet pieces, a cloth head, and a glue gun, which is exactly why a batch goes so much faster than a batch of stuffed amigurumi.

Crochet Christmas Angel Amigurumi

There is no closing a sphere and no sewing limbs on. The crochet is three circles and four short strips, all of it worked at 3 mm, and the fiddly part is the face, which takes two minutes once your hand knows the pen.

The Countdown

• One angel, first time through, including drying and the face: 60 to 75 minutes.
• One angel once you have made three: about 40 minutes, most of it in the two large circles.
• A batch of six: roughly 4 hours 30 minutes, comfortably done across a Saturday.
• A batch of twelve: about 8 hours. Split it over two days or the gel pen work at the end will suffer.
• Latest sensible start for six: two days out. Hot glue sets in minutes, so there is no long drying wait built into this one.
• Latest sensible start for twelve: three days out, assuming a few hours each evening.
• Posting them as gifts: add two days. The heads are cloth over stuffing and they arrive better if the box is not packed the same night the glue went on.

What You Need

• DK or light worsted yarn in your main colour for the circles, legs, hands, and hanging chain
• White yarn for the border rounds and the lace edging
• 3 mm crochet hook
• Cotton stuffing, a small amount per angel
• A scrap of thin cloth about 5 inches square per head, cotton or a cotton blend
• Powder eyeshadow, if your cloth is not already close to a skin tone
• A low-temperature glue gun and glue sticks
• A fine black gel pen
• Scissors and a tapestry needle

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• sc: single crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• st / sts: stitch / stitches
• FLO: front loop only

Pieces List

• Large circle: 2 per angel, worked in main colour with a white border and lace edge
• Small circle: 1 per angel, same construction, two rounds instead of three
• Hand: 2 per angel
• Leg: 2 per angel
• Shoe: 2 per angel, worked directly onto the bottom of each leg
• Hanging chain: 1 per angel
• Head: 1 per angel, cloth wrapped over a stuffing ball, not crocheted

For twelve angels that is 36 circles, 24 hands, 24 legs, 24 shoes, and 12 heads. Worth knowing before you start rather than halfway through.

The Pattern

All circles are worked in joined rounds with a ch 2 turning chain that does not count as a stitch. The stitch counts below are the ones the source states clearly; anything the video worked through without saying a number is flagged so you can check it against your own piece rather than trusting a guess.

Large Circle (make 24 for twelve angels, 2 per angel)

• Make a slip knot with a loose loop, leaving the ring open enough to work into, then ch 2. The ch 2 does not count as a stitch.
• Round 1: Work 12 dc into the ring. Pull the starting tail firmly to draw the ring closed, then join with a sl st into the first dc. (12) Checkpoint: the centre should close to a tight dot with no visible hole. If a hole remains, pull the tail again now, because it will not close once round 2 is on top of it.
• Round 2: Ch 2, work 2 dc into the same st as the join, then 2 dc into every st around. Join with a sl st. (24)
• Round 3: Ch 2, work 1 dc in the first st, 2 dc in the next st, then repeat [1 dc, 2 dc in next] around. Join with a sl st. (36) Checkpoint: the disc should lie flat on the table with no ruffle at the edge and no cupping in the centre. A ruffle means your dc rows are too loose for the increase rate, so drop to a 2.75 mm hook for the rest of the batch.
• Ch 1 and cut the main colour. Weave the end in later.
• Border round: Join white yarn, ch 1, then work 1 sc into each st around. Join with a sl st. (36)
• Lace edge: Ch 3, sl st into the next st, then repeat [ch 3, sl st into next st] all the way around. (36 ch-3 loops) [CHECK — the source is unclear on whether a stitch is skipped between loops. Working into every stitch gives a full frill; skipping every other stitch gives a flatter, more open edge. Pick one and use it on all 24 circles.]
• Ch 2, cut the yarn, and weave all ends in on the wrong side. Checkpoint: the finished circle should be a flat disc roughly 3 inches across with a soft scalloped rim. Both circles of a pair need to match, so measure the first one and use it as your reference for the rest.

Small Circle (make 12, 1 per angel)

• Make a slip knot with a loose ring and ch 2. The ch 2 does not count as a stitch.
• Round 1: Work 12 dc into the ring. Pull the tail tight to close the centre and join with a sl st into the first dc. (12)
• Round 2: Ch 2, work 2 dc into every st around. Join with a sl st. (24) Checkpoint: this one stops at two rounds, so it should read as a small saucer about two thirds the width of the large circle. If it is anywhere near the same size, you have worked an extra round.
• Border round: Join white yarn, ch 1, then work 1 sc into each of the 24 sts around. Join with a sl st. (24)
• Lace edge: Ch 3, sl st into the next st, then repeat [ch 3, sl st into next st] around. (24 ch-3 loops) [CHECK — same skip question as the large circle. Match whichever version you chose there.]
• Ch 2, cut the yarn, and secure the tails on the back.

If magic rings and invisible decreases sound like another language, start with the video tutorial below, it makes everything click!

Hand (make 24, 2 per angel)

• Leave a long starting tail, make a slip knot, and ch 3.
• Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, pull up a loop in each ch across until you have 3 loops on the hook. [CHECK — the source describes the loop buildup without giving a clean count. Three loops on the hook is what a ch 3 supports.]
• Yarn over and pull through all loops on the hook at once.
• Pull the starting tail to tighten the cluster, then work a sl st to lock it.
• Work 10 sc along the piece to form the arm. (10) [CHECK — the source gives the total as 10 sc but does not say where they are placed. Working them along the chain edge, into the same base, gives the small tapered hand shape shown.] Checkpoint: a finished hand is a short stubby strip about an inch long, slightly wider at the cluster end. It should not curl. If it curls, your sc are too tight.
• Fasten off, leaving the tail for gluing.

Leg (make 24, 2 per angel)

• Leave a long starting tail, make a slip knot, and ch 4.
• Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, pull up a loop in each ch across until you have 4 loops on the hook. [CHECK — loop count unclear in source; four is what a ch 4 supports.]
• Yarn over and pull through all loops on the hook at once.
• Pull the tail to tighten, then work a sl st to lock the cluster.
• Work 20 sc along the piece to create the leg length. (20) [CHECK — placement not stated in source]
• Fasten off. Checkpoint: legs should come out roughly twice the length of the hands. Lay all 24 side by side before you go near the glue gun, because a pair that differs by even half an inch reads as a limp on a hanging ornament.

Shoe (make 24, worked onto the bottom of each leg)

• Working into the front loops along the bottom edge of the leg, join yarn and ch 1.
• Work 1 sc into each of the next 3 front loops. (3)
• Work 2 sc into the 4th st. (2)
• Turn the work over and work 3 sc along the remaining front loops on that side. (3)
• Join with a sl st, ch 1, cut the yarn, and hide the ends inside the shoe. [CHECK — total shoe count comes to 8 sc as described, but the source does not state a final number]
• Checkpoint: the shoe should sit as a small rounded cap at the end of the leg, angled slightly forward rather than straight down. If it sits flat and square, you worked into both loops instead of the front loops.

Hanging Chain (make 12, 1 per angel)

• Ch 60 to 70, depending on how long you want the ornament to hang. Sixty-five is a good middle for a tree branch.
• Fasten off, leaving both tails long. Both ends get tied and glued during assembly, so do not trim them.

Head (make 12, not crocheted)

• Cut a square of thin cloth roughly 5 inches across.
• Roll a ball of cotton stuffing and wrap it tightly with white yarn until it holds as a compact sphere. Wrap more than feels necessary; a loose ball goes lumpy under the cloth.
• Set the wrapped ball in the centre of the cloth square, gather the cloth down around it, and tie off firmly at the base with yarn.
• Trim the excess cloth below the tie, leaving just enough to sit inside the collar later.
• If the cloth is not skin-toned, dab powder eyeshadow lightly over the front of the head and blend it with a fingertip.
• Pass a strand of yarn around the lower part of the head and tie it to form a soft brim line for the hair or hat detail.
• Checkpoint: a finished head should be firm enough that pressing it with a thumb leaves no dent. Soft heads sag forward once the ornament hangs, and no amount of glue at the neck corrects it.

Assembly-Line Running Order

The build order above is how one angel goes together. This is how twelve go together.

• Pass 1: all 24 large circles through round 3 in main colour. Long pass, and the one to do while you are fresh.
• Pass 2: all 12 small circles through round 2.
• Pass 3: switch to white and work the border round plus lace edge on all 36 circles back to back. One colour change for the whole batch instead of thirty-six.
• Pass 4: all 24 hands.
• Pass 5: all 24 legs, then all 24 shoes straight onto them without putting the legs down.
• Pass 6: all 12 hanging chains.
• Pass 7: all 12 heads, including the eyeshadow, before the glue gun comes out at all.
• Pass 8: glue assembly, all 12 in one sitting while the gun stays hot.
• Pass 9: faces last, in one run, in good light.

Do the faces in a single sitting even if you split everything else across days. Expression drift is real and the twelfth angel drawn on a different evening never quite matches the first.

 

Time Per Unit and Yarn for Twelve

• Large circle: 7 to 9 minutes each including the white edging, so about 16 minutes for a pair.
• Small circle: 5 minutes.
• Hand: 2 to 3 minutes each.
• Leg with shoe: 6 to 7 minutes each.
• Hanging chain: 2 minutes.
• Head: 5 to 6 minutes including blending the eyeshadow.
• Glue assembly: 8 to 10 minutes per angel.
• Face: 2 minutes, plus one test face on a cloth offcut before you start the batch.
• Main colour yarn: roughly 38 to 45 yards per angel, so about 500 yards for twelve. Two 100 g DK skeins covers it with a margin.
• White yarn: roughly 15 yards per angel for the borders and edging, so around 190 yards for twelve. One skein.
• Stuffing: a golf-ball-sized handful per head, so a single small bag serves the whole batch.
• Cloth: a fat quarter cuts down to twelve 5 inch squares with room to spare, plus the offcuts you need for pen tests.

Assembly

• Tie the hanging chain and the tops of both legs together in one firm knot. This knot becomes the anchor point for the whole ornament, so make it tighter than feels polite.
• Lay one large circle wrong side up, position the knot and the leg tops on it, then sandwich the second large circle on top and glue the two together around the inner area. Leave the lace edges free so the skirt keeps movement.
• Glue a hand to each side of the small circle, positioned on the underside so the lace edge hides the join.
• Glue the small circle onto the upper portion of the double-circle skirt. Sit it high enough that the hands fall at the skirt’s edge, not below it.
• Pass the hanging chain up through the centre of the small circle.
• Apply glue to the base of the head and press it onto the top of the body, then tie the chain firmly at the back of the head. The chain does the load-bearing here and the glue only holds the angle.
• Position everything and check the hang before the glue cools. Hold the ornament up by the chain at each stage; a body that sits crooked on the table will sit crooked on the tree, and hot glue gives you about fifteen seconds to fix it.
• Use a low-temperature glue gun. High-temperature glue flattens acrylic yarn where it touches, and the shine it leaves on the lace edge does not brush out.
• Draw the face last, once the whole thing is set and you can hold it at arm’s length to judge placement.

Stuffing

Only the head takes stuffing, which keeps this build fast. Wrap the ball firm, not soft; a compact sphere holds the cloth taut and the gel pen glides over a taut surface instead of catching. Over-stuffing shows up in two places. First at the neck, where too much bulk stops the cloth gathering into a clean tie and leaves a ridge. Second in proportion, since a head much wider than the small circle makes the angel look top-heavy on the string. Test the first head against the first small circle before you make the other eleven. The circles stay completely flat throughout and should never be padded.

The Character Dial

Christmas ornaments pull in two directions, and this angel takes either one without touching a single round of the pattern.

• For rustic, work the circles in undyed or heathered cream, oatmeal, or a soft flax colour, with the border round in the same shade one tone lighter rather than a bright white. Use unbleached calico or linen for the head and skip the eyeshadow entirely, so the face reads pale and old-fashioned. Swap the hanging chain for jute twine or a thin length of natural cotton string. Keep the drawn face minimal, just two small closed eyes as short curved lines and nothing else. A tiny sprig of dried greenery glued at the collar does more than any amount of trim. Make the twelve in three slightly different naturals rather than one uniform colour and hang them as a set.
• For bright, go rich and go glossy. Deep red or forest green circles with a crisp white border, or a metallic thread held alongside the main yarn for the border round only so the frill catches the tree lights. Gold or silver hanging chains. Add small beads at the ends of the lace edge scallops on the large circle, though only on the outer circle, since beads between the glued layers create lumps. Draw the face with more expression, open eyes with a lash line and a small smile. A halo made from a loop of gold wire or a ch 20 ring in metallic yarn, glued at the back of the head, gives the bright version its finish.
• The version that gets asked about most is neither. Plain white circles, white border, and a face drawn in a single warm brown pen instead of black, which softens the whole thing without changing anything else.

Safety, Eyes, and Small Parts

There are no safety eyes in this design. The face is drawn on cloth with a gel pen, which means the timing rule is simply that faces go on last, after the head is fixed to the body and you can see the angle it hangs at.

• If you swap the cloth head for a crocheted one, safety eyes go in before the head is closed and stuffed, with the backing washers seated from the inside. There is no way to add them after closing.
• For anyone under three, embroider the face in black yarn instead of drawing or using safety eyes. This applies to the cloth version too, since gel pen ink is not intended for chewing and the cloth head is exactly the size a small child will put in their mouth.
• This ornament is not suitable as a toy for a toddler in any version. It is assembled with hot glue, the head is a separate piece held on partly by adhesive, and the hands and shoes are small enough to come away under force.
• For treat bags, party favours, or a classroom set, skip the beads, skip the wire halo, and embroider the face. Assume the ornament will be handled hard and possibly taken apart.
• Hang finished angels above reach if there are small children in the house. The 65 chain hanging loop is long enough to be pulled down from a low branch.

Colourways

• Winter Chapel: soft dove grey circles, ivory border, pale grey hanging chain. Reads calm rather than seasonal and stays up past Twelfth Night without looking out of place.
• Candle Glow: warm butter yellow with a cream border and a bronze metallic thread in the lace edge only. Very good on a tree with warm-white lights, less so on cool white.
• Mulled Plum: deep aubergine circles, dusty rose border, gold chain. The unexpected one, and the one that photographs best against a dark green tree.
• Sea Glass: pale aqua and soft sand alternating between the two large circles, so the layered skirt shows two shades where the lace edges overlap. Costs nothing extra and looks like a design decision.

Display Ideas

• On the tree, hung at eye level on an outer branch where the two-layer skirt can turn and catch light.
• Tied to a gift as a topper the recipient keeps, which is what most of a batch of twelve tends to end up doing.
• Strung along a mantel garland or a length of ribbon in a row of three or four, spaced a hand’s width apart.

After the Season

The crochet parts store fine, but the cloth head is the weak point. Wrap each angel individually in tissue and store them upright in a shallow box rather than stacked, because pressure flattens the stuffing ball on one side and the head never rounds out again. Keep them somewhere dry. Damp gets into the cotton stuffing and the eyeshadow blush goes patchy over a year. Check the glue joints when you unpack them next November, since hot glue on yarn does let go eventually, and a quick re-glue at the neck takes a minute compared to remaking a head.

Quick Answers

• Can I crochet the head instead of using cloth? Yes, and plenty of people do. Work a small sphere in a skin-tone yarn, stuff it firm, and close it before assembly, keeping it about two thirds the width of the small circle so the proportions hold. You lose the pen-drawn face, so plan on embroidering the features instead.
• My gel pen keeps feathering on the cloth. Test on an offcut of the exact same cloth before you touch an angel, because a cotton blend takes ink cleanly and a loose-weave cotton wicks it sideways. If it feathers, a finer nib helps more than a lighter hand. Letting the eyeshadow settle for a few minutes before drawing also stops the powder lifting the ink.
• Do I really need the glue gun, or can I sew it all together? You can sew it, and it will hold better long term, but it roughly doubles your assembly time per angel. For a batch of twelve, glue the skirt layers and sew only the head and hands, which is where the strain actually goes. That split gets you most of the durability for a fraction of the extra time.