Crochet Pig Amigurumi Free Pattern Easy No-Sew

Hand this crochet pig amigurumi to anyone on the sofa and it does not come back until the programme ends. Black teardrop eye patches give it the whole expression, and only the ears, snout, and tail get sewn on.

The snout is a raised oval sewn onto the front of the face with two black nostrils stitched into it, and everything else on this crochet pig amigurumi free pattern easy no-sew grows from one piece. The body is a wide rounded shape in pink chenille with two folded ears, a small curled tail at the back, and large black eye patches shaped like teardrops. Only the ears, snout, and tail attach, so the body itself closes without a seam anywhere.

Crochet Pig Amigurumi

The thing that makes this pig worth studying is the engineering. Ears come off the hook mid-round as small chain and stitch constructions, worked directly into the body as you go. Feet are triple crochet bobbles, pulled up from the same round that becomes the belly. Nothing is sewn on afterwards, because there is no afterwards — the whole animal comes off the hook essentially assembled, and the only post-work is the curly tail, the embroidered face, and closing the final gap. That is a fundamentally different way of building an amigurumi, and once you have made one pig this way it changes how you think about any no-sew construction.

Countdown Block

• One pig, start to finish: 3 to 5 hours for an experienced maker who has read the pattern first. Add an hour if the no-sew ear and bobble foot construction is new to you.
• A batch of six: 18 to 24 hours. The mid-round ear and foot work slows the batch pace compared to standard amigurumi because you cannot run the rounds on autopilot.
• Latest safe start for one: two days out, with an afternoon and an evening free.
• Latest safe start for six: ten days out. The mid-round construction does not suit exhausted hands and a deadline.

What Makes This Design Stand Out

• Most amigurumi ears are flat pieces crocheted separately and sewn on. Most feet are rounds or separate tubes, also sewn. This pig does both in-round, mid-row, without stopping the body construction. The ears grow out of round 7 as four-chain constructions with slip stitches and hdc shaping worked along the chain edge, then rejoined to the body. The feet are triple-crochet bobbles — a five-loop construction pulled through in one motion — embedded at specific stitch positions in rounds 7, 8, 13, and 14, positioned so the finished pig sits level on a flat surface.
• The snout is also structural. It starts as the first piece worked, with round 2 worked into the third loop of each hdc rather than the standard loops. That third-loop row creates a ridge that will later become the pig’s nose bridge when the body is stuffed and the snout pushes forward. Small technical decision, large visual result.

Pieces List

This is a one-piece no-sew build. Everything listed below is worked as part of the single continuous piece or added directly to the finished body without separate construction.

• Snout and body, worked as one continuous piece — make 1
• Ears, worked in-round during round 7 — 2 ears built in
• Feet, worked as bobbles during rounds 7, 8, 13, and 14 — 4 feet built in
• Curly tail, attached and worked directly onto the finished body — add 1
• Embroidered nostrils and eyes — added at finishing

Materials

• 6 mm crochet hook
• Bernat Blanket yarn in pink for the main body
• A second colour of Blanket yarn for an optional two-toned snout — small amount
• Small scraps of black and white Blanket yarn for embroidered eyes
• Worsted weight black yarn for the embroidered nostrils — a small amount only
• Polyfill stuffing
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• MR — magic ring
• sc — single crochet
• hdc — half double crochet
• dc — double crochet
• inc — increase, two single crochets into the same stitch
• dec — decrease, worked as an invisible decrease through the front loops only
• sl st — slip stitch
• ch — chain
• TCB — triple crochet bobble: yarn over twice, insert into the stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops again, leaving 2 loops on the hook. Repeat this full sequence 3 more times into the same stitch so 5 loops sit on the hook, then yarn over and pull through all 5 loops at once.

Work in continuous unjoined spirals throughout. Move your stitch marker up every round.

The Pattern

Snout

• Round 1: MR, 8 hdc into the ring. If making a two-toned pig, complete the final hdc by yarning over with the body colour before pulling through all loops on the hook, so the colour swap is clean. Pull the ring closed. [8]
• Round 2: Sc into the third loop of each stitch around. The third loop sits just behind the back loop, visible as a small horizontal bar on the back of each hdc. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of this round. [8]. This round feels slightly awkward at first because the third loop is narrow. Work slowly and confirm you are catching only the third loop and not the back loop as well.
• Round 3: Inc in every stitch around. [16]

• Round 4: Work 1 sc then inc, repeat around. [24]
• Round 5: Work 2 sc then inc, repeat around, ending with 1 sc in the final stitch. [32]. By the end of round 5 the snout should look like a shallow bowl with a slight upward curl at the edge. It should not be flat and it should not be a deep cup. If the edge is ruffling significantly your increases are too bunched; redistribute them more evenly across the round.
• Round 6: Sc in each stitch around. [32]. The snout is now a complete cylinder. Hold it with the third-loop ridge facing you and look at it from the side. That ridge should form a visible horizontal line around the inner lower rim.

Body with Built-In Ears and Feet

• Round 7: Work 13 sc. Then: ch 4, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook, work 1 hdc into the next ch, work 1 dc into the 3rd ch, sl st back into the base of the last sc to close the first ear. Work 7 sc. Then: ch 4, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook, work 1 hdc into the next ch, work 1 dc into the 3rd ch, sl st back into the base of the last sc to close the second ear. Work 9 sc. Then: work 1 TCB into the next stitch for the first foot. Finish with 2 sc. [32 stitches in the body round, plus 2 ears and 1 foot projecting outward]. After this round the pig should look like a flat disc with two small pointed ears rising from the upper edge and one rounded bump on the lower edge. The ears will soften once the body is stuffed.
• Round 8: Work 3 sc. Then: work 1 TCB into the next stitch for the second foot. Finish the round with 29 sc, working carefully to maintain your stitch count as you pass the first foot bobble and both ears. [32]. Check your count here before going further. The two feet sit opposite each other at this point, and if the count is off by even one stitch, the remaining feet in rounds 13 and 14 will not land in the right positions.
• Rounds 9 to 12: Sc in each stitch around, no shaping. [32 each round]. This is the straight belly of the pig. By the end of round 12 the body should be roughly cylindrical with the two front feet pushing out from rounds 7 and 8.

• Round 13: Work 30 sc. Then: work 1 TCB into the next stitch for the third foot. Finish with 1 sc in the final stitch. [32]. The third foot lands at the back lower edge of the pig, on the opposite side from the ears.
• Round 14: Work 3 sc. Then: work 1 TCB into the next stitch for the fourth and final foot. Finish with 28 sc. [32]. All four feet are now in place. Set the pig down on a flat surface and look at it from the side. The four bobbles should sit at roughly the same height, and the body should not be tilting significantly in any direction. If it is leaning, note which foot is lower and adjust its position relative to the others next time.
• Round 15: Work 1 sc then 1 dec, then repeat the sequence 1 sc then 1 sc then 1 dec around, ending with 1 sc in the last stitch. [24]
• Round 16: Work 1 sc then 1 dec, repeat around. [16]. Begin stuffing now, firmly, pushing fiberfill down and out toward the sides and feet. Do not wait until round 17 to stuff. The opening will be too small.
• Round 17: Work 8 dec all the way around. [8]. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Closing the Body

• Thread the tail onto your tapestry needle. Weave through the front loop of each of the 8 remaining stitches, going around once. Pull gently to cinch the hole closed. Do not pull hard all at once. Work slowly and even the tension around the ring before pulling fully closed. Fasten off and bury the end inside.

Curly Tail

• Attach pink yarn to the centre back of the body near the bottom with a slip stitch.
• Ch 8.
• Starting from the 2nd chain from the hook, work 2 sc into each chain all the way back down to the base. The chain will immediately begin to curl as you work. [14 sc]
• Sl st to rejoin to the body, cut the yarn, and weave both ends inside the body.

Facial Embroidery

• Nostrils: Using worsted weight black yarn and a tapestry needle, embroider two small vertical straight stitches onto the snout. Position them centrally, evenly spaced. Keep them narrow — these read better as nostrils than as thick marks.
• Eyes: Using black Blanket yarn, stitch rounded oval or circle shapes onto the face between rounds 4 and 5, aligning them horizontally with the nose and ears. Use enough yarn to fill the shape solidly rather than leaving it as outline stitching.
• Eye highlights: Using white Blanket yarn, add a small accent stitch just below or to one side of each eye. Consistent placement across both eyes is what makes this read as a highlight rather than a mistake.
• Pull all ends to the inside and bury them securely in the stuffing.

Where Makers Usually Go Wrong on This One

• Missing the third loop in round 2. This is the most common error and the one that costs the most to fix, because by the time you realise the ridge is missing the snout is closed and the face is embroidered. The third loop is narrow and it requires you to tilt the hdc slightly to see it. Before working round 2, pause and identify the third loop on one stitch before picking up your hook.
• Losing the stitch count in round 7. The ear constructions are worked off the main round as branch stitches, and the instinct is to count them in your round total. They are not part of the 32. The chains, hdc, dc, and sl sts that form each ear are all working off a stitch you already counted. The 32 total is body stitches only.
• Placing the bobble feet too early. The positions of the feet in rounds 7, 8, 13, and 14 are specific stitch counts, not approximate zones. If the bobbles land in the wrong stitches the pig tilts, and there is no correction available once the body is stuffed and closed. Count carefully into each foot position rather than estimating by eye.
• Stuffing too late. Many makers wait until round 17 to stuff because that is the natural impulse — stuff before closing. At 8 stitches remaining the opening is too small to pack properly, and the body ends up under-stuffed at the sides and near the feet. Start pushing fiberfill in at round 16 and add more through the closing gap at round 17.
• Embroidering the eyes too low. The source places them between rounds 4 and 5, and that lands higher on the face than instinct suggests, aligned with the nose and ears. Eyes placed below that line look like they are on the snout rather than above it.

Safety Eye Timing

• This pattern uses embroidered eyes from the start, which means the timing question is when to do the embroidery rather than when to lock a washer. The answer is after closing and stuffing, with the face fully shaped, because the stuffing changes the surface enough that embroidery placed on a flat unstuffed piece lands in the wrong position once it fills out.
• If you want to substitute safety eyes — for a version not going to young children — insert them between rounds 4 and 5 while the body is still open, and lock the washers before stuffing. The positions align with the horizontal line of ears and nose at that point in the build. Do not use safety eyes for any version going to a child under three, into a party bag, or into a classroom set. The embroidered method is also the better-looking result on Blanket yarn, where safety eyes tend to sink into the thick pile and lose definition.

The Character Dial

The pig silhouette is specific enough that you have two clear directions without either one losing the read.

• Softer and sweeter. Switch the main yarn to a pale blush or a dusty rose rather than standard pink. Embroider the eyes as wide soft ovals with larger white highlights, placed a stitch further apart than the pattern suggests. Add a small round embroidered blush circle below each eye using a soft coral or peach yarn. Make the curly tail longer — chain 12 instead of 8, with the same 2 sc per chain — so it falls in a full spiral. This version photographs well against pastels and reads immediately as a gift rather than a display piece.
• More character, less cute. Keep the rust or terracotta end of the pink spectrum. Work the snout in a noticeably darker shade using the two-toned option. Embroider the nostrils larger and slightly wider apart. Narrow the eye spacing by one stitch and reduce the white highlight to a single small dot rather than an arc. Add a slightly slouched quality by understuffing the body just a little so the pig sits with a slight forward lean on its front feet. This version has a personality that is different from the standard round-and-sweet pig and it reads as a display object rather than a toy.

Colourways

• Pale Blush and Ivory. The softest possible version. Blush pink body, ivory snout. Eyes in pale grey rather than black. Reads as a modern nursery piece rather than a farmyard animal.
• Classic Farm Pink. The pattern’s intended palette. Strong bright pink throughout, no two-tone. The most immediately recognisable version and the one that photographs cleanly against a white background.
• Terracotta and Sand. A warm rust body in the darker tone of the Blanket yarn range, sand-coloured snout. Sits well in an autumn farmhouse context without needing any seasonal styling beyond placement.
• Dusty Mauve. A greyed-out lilac, which sounds implausible for a pig and reads surprisingly well. Embroider the eyes and nostrils in dark plum rather than black. The version adults want for themselves without admitting it.

Stuffing

• Stuff firmly throughout. The pig needs internal pressure to hold the barrel body shape and push the snout forward. Under-stuffed, the body collapses between the bobble feet and the animal looks deflated rather than rounded.
• Push fiberfill out toward the sides as you add it, not just down the centre. The feet are the visual anchor of this piece and they will sink toward the body if the stuffing underneath them does not provide resistance.
• The snout stuffs as part of the body since it is one continuous piece. The third-loop ridge in round 2 only reads as a nose bridge if the stuffing behind it is firm enough to push the snout forward and hold it there. If the snout looks flat after closing, the stuffing is insufficient.

There is no part of this pig that benefits from being left soft. Everything should hold its shape when pressed lightly.

Display Ideas

• Farm-themed tiered tray. Second tier, on its side next to a small wooden spool or a bundle of raffia. The curly tail is the detail that reads from a distance.
• Kitchen windowsill. The pig is a kitchen animal in a way that sheep and bears are not. A small grouping of one or two on a sill near a herb pot works without needing any additional styling.
• Child’s bookshelf, seated against the spine of a wide book. The four feet sit flat. The pig stays put.
• Gift topper on a food hamper or baked goods box. Tie loosely through the curly tail with kitchen twine. Practical and unexpected.
• Bowl filler in a wooden bowl alongside other small farm animals. The pig’s barrel shape reads well grouped with rounder amigurumi forms.

After the Season

If this was made for a seasonal display rather than play, store it stuffed and upright rather than compressed into a bag with other pieces. Blanket yarn holds its shape well but it pills if it is rubbed against something over months. Keep the pig in its own cotton bag or loosely in a box. The curly tail is the piece most likely to lose its shape — a gentle tug and a few seconds of steam from a hand steamer held at distance will reset it. Check the embroidered eyes once before giving it to a child again after storage, since the yarn can loosen slightly over time inside a box.

Quick Answers

• Can I use regular DK or worsted yarn instead of Blanket yarn? You can, with a smaller hook — 2.5 mm for DK, 4 mm for worsted — but the bobble feet will be smaller and the pig will be significantly more miniature. The feet need bulk to read as feet rather than bumps, so the finished look changes.
• The ears are sticking out at a strange angle — is that right? Yes. The ears project forward from the edge of the snout because of where they land in round 7, and they soften into a more natural position once the body behind them is stuffed and the snout fills out. If they still look odd after stuffing, you can bend them slightly toward the top of the head and tack them with a stitch or two.
• I missed the third loop in round 2 and the snout looks flat. Can I fix it? Honestly, only by unravelling back to that round. The ridge is structural and the snout profile does not recover without it. It is a frustrating rip-back but it is faster than finishing a pig whose face does not work.
• My stitch count keeps getting off in round 7. What is happening? The ear stitches are the almost certain cause. Every chain, hdc, dc, and sl st in the ear is a stitch that must not appear in your round 7 count. The body count is 32 stitches and the ears are off-round construction. Count only the sc stitches that travel around the circumference, ignoring the ear branches entirely.